Lady Adventure

This pattern comes as a free PDF. It's basically one very simple pattern that can be used to make little owls, penguins or robins. You can put them on a keychain or attach a thread to hang them from a Christmas tree, or simply make them as a little gift for someone special. Feel free to make them for gifts or to sell at craft fairs, but don't re-sell the pattern or claim it as your own work. That would be very naughty!
The pattern can be downloaded HERE.

P.S. Since apologies to any ornithologists who may read this for my blatant disregard of the anatomical differences between these three wingèd creatures.

This is a simple square - or, to be more precise, a circle in a square. I've chosen to do mine with a restricted palette - cream as the main colour and three bands of colour (cream, cappuccino and sky blue) around the circle.

This pattern can be dowloaded as PDF via Ravelry: download now

This pattern uses American terminology. The British terms are in [brackets].

• ch  - chain
• SC [DC] - single crochet [double crochet]
• HDC [HTR] - half double crochet [half treble]
• DC [TR] - double crochet [treble]
• TR  [DTR] - treble [double treble]

Start with your main colour

Chain 4. Join with a sl st to form a loop.
Round 1: Chain 3. This counts as 1st DC [TR] here and throughout! 11 DC [TR] in loop. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. (Stitch count: 12 DC [TR] in loop.)
Round 2: Chain 3, 1 DC [TR] in same st. 2 DC [TR] in each st in the round. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. Ch 1, yank tight, cut yarn and weave in end. (Stitch count: 24 DC [TR] ).

Change colour - colour 1
Round 3: 1 ch, 1 DC [TR] in same stitch, *2 DC [TR] in next stitch, 1 DC [TR] in next stitch. Repeat from * around, ending with 2 DC [TR]. Join with slip stitch.

Change colour - colour 2
Round 4: 1 ch, 1 DC [TR] in same stitch and 1 DC [TR] in next stitch, *2 DC [TR] in next stitch, 1 DC [TR] in next two stitches. Repeat from * around, ending with 2 DC [TR]. Join with slip stitch.

Change colour - colour 3
Round 5: 1 ch, 1 DC [TR] in same stitch and 1 DC [TR] in next two stitches, *2 DC [TR] in next stitch, 1 DC [TR] in next three stitches. Repeat from * around, ending with 2 DC [TR]. Join with slip stitch.
You should now have 60 DC [TR] around your circle. 

Change colour back to your main colour
Round 6:  1 ch, *2 TR [DTR] in same stitch. 1 DC [TR] in the next two stitches, 1 HDC [HTR] in the next two stitches, 1 SC [DC] in the next five stitches, 1 HDC [HTR] in the next two stitches, 1 DC [TR] in the next two stitches, 2 TR [DTR] in same stitch, 2 chain **.
Repeat from * to ** three more times. Join with slip stitch to the top of the first TR [DTR].



Round 7: 1 ch, 1 DC [TR] in same stitch and *1 DC [TR] in each of the next stitches. In the corner space, crochet 2 DC [TR] + chain 2 + 2 DC [TR]**.  Repeat from * to ** (i.e. crochet one DC [TR] in each stitch, and 2 DC [TR] + chain 2 + 2 DC [TR] in each corner.)


Round 8: Repeat round 7. Leave a long tail to sew the motifs together. 

Be afraid. Be very afraid.

Now it's time for a little whimsy: egg cozies! These are supposed to keep your boiled eggs warm, but I think they just make funny table decorations. Hide a Cadbury's Creme Egg under one of these to make someone very happy (e.g. me. Any chance of a free box of eggs, Mr Cadbury, for my discreet product placement? No? Oh, well...)
 


Materials
You need a
3.50mm hook (an ‘E’ hook)
approx. 15g sock yarn (or fingering weight cotton)
2 little buttons for eyes
1 darning needle
Small amount of white DK or WW yarn (for teeth)
Note: this pattern uses American terms, the British terms are in [brackets].


Bunny Body:
Start by chaining 3 and join with a slip stitch to form a little circle.
OR: start with a magic loop

Round 1: Chain one, then do a SC [DC] in the same stitch below (this counts as your first SC [DC] here and throughout), then do 9 SC (DC) into the circle. (10 stitches in total)
Round 2: Chain one, then do 2 SC [DC] in the same stitch. 2 SC [DC] in next nine stitches (20 stitches in total)
Round 3: Chain one, then do 1 SC [DC] in the same stitch, 1 SC [DC] in next nineteen stitches (20 stitches in total)
Round 4: Chain one, then do 1 SC [DC] in the same stitch, 2 SC [DC] in next stitch, *1 SC [DC] in next stitch, 2 SC [DC] in stitch after. Repeat from * around, ending with 2 SC [DC] (30 stitches in total)
Round 5: Chain one, then do 1 SC [DC] in the same stitch, 1 SC [DC] in next twenty-nine stitches (30 stitches in total)
Repeat round 5 till your cozy is three in/eight cm long. Cut yarn, weave in end.

No rude comments, please.

Bunny Ears (make 2):
 Chain 11, do a SC [DC] in the second stitch from hook. Do 1 SC [DC] in the next nine stitches. Chain one.
Now turn this twisty little piece of crochet upside down, so the bottom of the starting chain is facing up. Crochet 1 SC [DC] in the bottom loops of the ten stitches across. Chain one.


Turn your work right-side up, so the first row you did is facing up again. Crochet 1 SC [DC] in the first SC [DC] of the previous row, as though you were starting a normal row. Do 1 SC [DC] in the next nine stitches,


then 1 SC [DC] into the top of this little rectangle, and crochet 1 SC [DC] in each of the stitches down the other side.


Cut yarn, leaving a 4 inch/10 cm tail to sew your ears on.


Assembly:
Sew the ears on either side of the bunny body head. Position the button eyes in such a way that bunny looks vaguely threatening (or cute, if you so desire.) Sew on firmly - nothing worse than a one-eyed Killer Bunny.
Create teeth by simply adding two vertical stitches in white yarn. Again, contemplate how to position the teeth in order to make the bunny look extra-scary.

Frankenbunny

Now have them stand guard over your breakfast:

"Grrrrrrrrrrr!" A PDF of this pattern can be made at THIS website: just copy and paste this link http://ladypret.blogspot,com/2011/04/pattern-killer-bunny-egg-cozy.html and it prepares a perfect PDF, ready for print!

Why? Because I want to know if I can. That's the driving force behind much of my crochet designing. I wanted a very elegant, classic Twenties cloche hat and I couldn't find a pattern for one - so I made one up. Here you go:

Materials
You need a
3.50mm hook (a ‘E’ hook)
approx. 90g sock yarn (or fingering weight cotton)
Note: this pattern uses American terms, the British terms are in [brackets].


The crown:
Start by chaining 3 and join with a slip stitch to form a little circle.
OR: start with a magic loop (thanks to Carla for pointing it out!)
If you have never crocheted a hat before, have a look at the pattern for the SiSoYa hat HERE. This includes some photos to help you along.


Round 1: Chain one, then do a SC [DC] in the same stitch below (this counts as your first SC [DC] here and throughout), then do 9 SC (DC) into the circle. Join the last stitch to the first stitch of the row with a slip stitch. (10 stitches in total)
Round 2: Chain one, then do 2 SC [DC] in the same stitch. 2 SC [DC] in next nine stitches. Join the last stitch to the first stitch of the row with a slip stitch. (20 stitches in total)
Round 3: Chain one, then do 1 SC [DC] in the same stitch, 1 SC [DC] in next nineteen stitches. Join the last stitch to the first stitch of the row with a slip stitch. (20 stitches in total)
Round 4: Chain one, then do 1 SC [DC] in the same stitch, 2 SC [DC] in next stitch, *1 SC [DC] in next stitch, 2 SC [DC] in stitch after. Repeat from * around, ending with 2 SC [DC]. Join the last stitch to the first stitch of the row with a slip stitch. (30 stitches in total)
Round 5: Chain one, then do 1 SC [DC] in the same stitch, 1 SC [DC] in next twenty-nine stitches. Join the last stitch to the first stitch of the row with a slip stitch. (30 stitches in total)
Round 6: Chain one, then do 1 SC [DC] in the same stitch, 1 SC [DC] in next stitch, 2 SC [DC] in next stitch, *1 SC [DC] in next two stitches, 2 SC [DC] in next stitch. Repeat from * around, ending with 2 SC [DC]. Join the last stitch to the first stitch of the row with a slip stitch. (40 stitches in total)
Round 7: Chain one, then do 1 SC [DC] in the same stitch, 1 SC [DC] in next thirty-nine stitches. Join the last stitch to the first stitch of the row with a slip stitch. (40 stitches in total)
Round 8: Chain one, then do 1 SC [DC] in the same stitch, 1 SC [DC] in next stitch, 2 SC [DC] in next stitch, *1 SC [DC] in next three stitches, 2 SC [DC] in next stitch. Repeat from * around, ending with 2 SC [DC]. Join the last stitch to the first stitch of the row with a slip stitch. (50 stitches in total)

From this point on, you increase in every second round (the even-numbered rounds.) You increase by adding one more SC [DC] between every double SC [DC] in every round. In other words, in round 8, you do one SC [DC] in three stitches between each double SC [DC]; in round 10, you’ll do one SC [DC] in four stitches between your doubles. Every second round (the uneven-numbered rounds) will simply be a SC [DC] in each stitch.

You continue to increase like this until you have a slightly-curling circle (it will probably be like a woolly saucer) that has a diametre of a bit more than 18 cm / 7 inches. (Mine was 7.25 inches when I stopped.) If you have a big head or a lot of hair, make the crown a bit bigger. It's supposed to fit snugly but you don't want it to cut off the blood circulation to your brain.


The body of the hat:
Now keep crocheting in the round - no more increases, just one SC [DC] in every stitch, till the hat is approximately 18 cm / 7 inches from the crown of the hat to the brim (bottom edge). When you pop the hat on your head, the brim (bottom edge) ought to sit at eyebrow level.

The brim:
In order to achieve the gently-sloping brim of a Twenties-style hat, you have to increase very gradually. These values are approximate and are meant as a guideline:


BrimRd1: Chain one, then do 1 SC [DC] in the same stitch, 1 SC [DC] in next 29 stitches, 2 SC [DC] in next stitch *1 SC [DC] in next thirty stitches, 2 SC [DC] in next stitch. Repeat from * around. You mightn't finish neatly with 2 SC [DC] as you did when you were crocheting the crown - don't worry. If I reach the end of the round after, say, 26 SC [DC] then I do 2 SC [DC] in the last stitch. If I reach the end of the round after 10 SC [DC] then I don't. It's all about spacing your 2 SC [DC] as evenly as you can. . Join the last stitch to the first stitch of the row with a slip stitch.
BrimRd2-6: Chain one, then do 1 SC [DC] in the same stitch, 1 SC [DC] in each stitch all round. . Join the last stitch to the first stitch of the row with a slip stitch. (= five rows of single SC [DC] )

BrimRd7: Chain one, then do 1 SC [DC] in the same stitch, 1 SC [DC] in next 39 stitches, 2 SC [DC] in next stitch *1 SC [DC] in next forty stitches, 2 SC [DC] in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Again, you mightn't finish neatly with a 2 SC [DC] but you can use your discretion and add a 2 SC [DC] in the last stitch if you wish. . Join the last stitch to the first stitch of the row with a slip stitch.
BrimRd8-12: Chain one, then do 1 SC [DC] in the same stitch, 1 SC [DC] in each stitch all round. (= five rows of single SC [DC] ) Join the last stitch to the first stitch of the row with a slip stitch.

BrimRd13: Chain one, then do 1 SC [DC] in the same stitch, 1 SC [DC] in next 34 stitches, 2 SC [DC] in next stitch *1 SC [DC] in next thirty-five stitches, 2 SC [DC] in next stitch. Repeat from * around.
BrimRd14-16: Chain one, then do 1 SC [DC] in the same stitch, 1 SC [DC] in each stitch all round. (= three rows of single SC [DC] )

BrimRd17: Chain one, then do 1 SC [DC] in the same stitch, 1 SC [DC] in next 34 stitches, 2 SC [DC] in next stitch *1 SC [DC] in next thirty-five stitches, 2 SC [DC] in next stitch. Repeat from * around. . Join the last stitch to the first stitch of the row with a slip stitch.
BrimRd18-20: Chain one, then do 1 SC [DC] in the same stitch, 1 SC [DC] in each stitch all round. (= three rows of single SC [DC] ) . Join the last stitch to the first stitch of the row with a slip stitch.

Your brim should now have a gentle slope like this, low enough to come down over your eyes so you can flutter your peepers beguilingly at passers-by. Try it on again and again as you crochet, so you stop at the length that suits you. Mine is very low but you might prefer yours a little shorter.




Shaping:
In order to help this hat keep its shape, it's not a bad idea to stiffen it a little. I wet mine with warm water (not hot - we don't want it to felt) using a spray bottle. I then placed it on top of my Styrofoam model's head and pulled it into shape. It didn't require much shaping, mind you, as the SC [DC] and thin yarn mean that the hat already maintains its shape reasonably well. I sprayed it with some spray starch (available in the laundry section of your local supermarket) and blow-dried it using a warm setting on the hair-drier. The hat isn't stiff (I used very little starch) but it keeps its basic shape when I put it on and take it off - which is what I wanted. More information about stiffening crochet here.

If you don't have a Styrofoam head (and I admit that this is not the kind of item knocking around most households), you could look for a simple alternative. Before I had mine, I used an upside-down breakfast bowl on a candlestick or my husband's volleyball. Essentially anything with a rounded shape to allow the hat to dry on would do the trick.


Decorating:
This is the bit I like best and it's amazing how the hat changes character depending on the ribbons and embellishments you pin on it:





You may not reproduce this pattern in print or claim it as your work. You may not sell the pattern. Do not copy and paste pattern to another website, please use a link. You can make these hats for your personal use, for gifts and to sell privately (e.g. at craft fairs or markets.) I would kindly request that you give me credit for the pattern on your product tag with a link to my website - 'cause that's the decent thing to do and we crafters are decent people. And, obviously, if you make millions from making these hats, you have to give me a significant share.
 

Valentine's Day. I'm not a fan. Not least because my dear husband maintains it's a conspiracy by greeting card companies and florists to trick dopey men into shelling out their hard-earned cash for woman-pleasing trifles. At least, that's his story and he's sticking to it. And he's more romantic than I am, so that ought to give you an idea of how fervently we celebrate St. Valentine's Day in this house.

But this is a very quick and simple pattern for little hearts that have an infinite variety of uses. Made with a 3.75mm (F) hook and mercerised cotton, mine are 5 cm / 2 inches tall and a little over 5 cm / 2 inches wide at their widest point. They take less than five minutes to make - in fact, I can knock one out in two or three minutes flat - and use small amounts of leftover yarn.

Here's how you do it...
You need 

• a 3.75mm (F) hook
• scraps of coloured cotton

This pattern uses American terms. The British terms are in [brackets].

DC [TR] = double crochet [treble crochet]
TR [DC] = treble crochet [double treble crochet]

Start by chaining 4, then join with a slip stitch.
Chain 3 (counts as the first DC [TR]), do 2 DC [TR] into the ring. Chain 2, 3 DC [TR], chain 2, 3 DC [TR], chain 2, 3 DC [TR], chain 2 and join to the third chain of your first 'fake' DC [TR].

Chain 3, then do 1 DC [TR] in the same corner gap, crochet one DC [TR]  in each DC [TR] of the previous round. Crochet 2 DC [TR] in corner gap, chain 2, 2 DC [TR] in same corner gap, then continue with 1 DC [TR] in each DC [TR] of the round below, and 2 DC [TR] + chain 2 + 2 DC [TR] in each corner. Join to the third chain of your first 'fake' DC [TR].

You should have a little square with 7 DC [TR] on each side.

 
* Slipstitch. Start a TR [DTR]: yarn over twice, then insert hook in the top of the fourth DC[TR] (the middle stitch) of the previous round.


Yarn over - you now have four loops on your hook. Yarn over and draw through two loops. You now have three on your hook. Yarn over and draw through two loops. You now have two on your hook. Yarn over and draw yarn through remaining two loops. You now have one loop on your hook.




Now do 6 DC [TR] in the same stitch as the TR [DTR] (i.e. the fourth of the seven DC [TR]s in the round below.) In the same stitch do one more TR [DTR].

 

Slipstitch the 'petal' of the heart into the corner gap **
and repeat from * to ** on the next side of your square.



Slipstitch twice, yank yarn tight and cut a tail, which you then weave in and out of the stitches. Pull your heart into shape. At this point you might consider blocking or starching your hearts - I starched mine, using a light spray-on starch and a warm iron. You can see that the heart on the right is slightly stiffer and flatter than the one on the left.


Now all you have to do is make enough to adorn inanimate objects or to simply make a decorate garland.


If made in a thicker yarn, for example worsted weight, you will have hearts that are big enough for bunting. If done in cotton, you can sew two together  leaving a gap at the top to make a little bag (e.g. for sweets or candies - a nice idea for a wedding favour, if you have the patience to churn out dozens of little hearts in your wedding colours.)

Happy Valentine's Day!

This pattern is available for download as a PDF here.

This "recipe" was inspired by Nevada Mama and KTB Design's iced donut patterns. I've tweaked the instructions a bit to create a donut that worked well with my yarn and tension. Bear in mind, though, that this is a recipe and, like every recipe, you might have to add or take away a stitch or two here or there to make something you like.

You need:

• Some brown yarn for the donut (about 15g)
• Scraps of pastel yarn for the frosting
• glass-headed pins (the 'sprinkles')
  
• a smaller hook than the size recommended for the yarn. I'm using a sport weight/DK yarn with a recommended 4.50 mm - 5 mm hook (G or H) and I'm actually using a 3.50 or 3.75 mm (F) hook. The reason for this is that you want a really tight weave, so the stuffing isn't visible.
• ... and a darning needle.

This pattern uses American terminology. The British terms are in [brackets].

• SC [DC] - single crochet [double crochet]
• 2SC [DC] tog - 2 single crochet [double crochet] together (Insert hook into stitch of previous row, draw yarn through. Put hook into the next stitch, draw yarn through. You now have three loops on the hook... yarn over and pull the yarn through all three loops. Picture demo here.)
• HDC [HTR] - half double crochet [half treble]
• DC [TR] - double crochet [treble]

The increase rounds (with 2 SC [DC] in one stitch) and the decrease rounds (with 2SC [DC] tog.) don't have to be exact - the increases/decreases have to be spaced more or less evenly across the round. So don't worry if you've done 2 SC [DC] before an increase and then 3 SC [DC] before the next one - no panic, just a minor blip, no one will notice!

The first round is quite wriggly. Persevere!

Begin by chaining 18 stitches.
Rd 1: 1 SC [DC] in each stitch.
Rd 2: 2 SC [DC] in each stitch around.
Rd 3: 1 SC [DC] in each stitch
Rd 4: *2 SC [DC] in first stitch, 1 SC [DC] in next stitch**. Repeat from * to ** all round.
Rd 5: 1 SC [DC] in each stitch
Rd 6: 1 SC [DC] in each stitch
Rd 7: 1 SC [DC] in each stitch
Rd 8: *2 SC [DC] in first stitch, 1 SC [DC] in next four stitches **. Repeat from * to ** all round. 
Rd 9: 1 SC [DC] in each stitch
Rd 10:  *2 SC [DC] in first stitch, 1 SC [DC] in next five stitches **. Repeat from * to ** all round.

At this point, my donut is like a flat(tish) saucer with a hole in the middle. It measures about 12 cm/4.75 inches across. If yours is bigger, don't worry - you might be using a thicker yarn. You can either rip back a row or keep going to make a bigger donut. (See? My tape measure does imperial and metric!)


 

Now we're going to decrease:
Rd 11: *2SC [DC]tog, 1 SC [DC] in next five stitches **. Repeat from * to ** all round. 
Rd 12: 1 SC [DC] in each stitch

At this point, you might notice your work is starting to curl back in ... that's perfect!

Rd 13: *2SC [DC]tog, 1 SC [DC] in next four stitches **. Repeat from * to ** all round.
Rd 14: 1 SC [DC] in each stitch
Rd 15: *2SC [DC]tog, 1 SC [DC] in next three stitches **. Repeat from * to ** all round.

Rd 16: 1 SC [DC] in each stitch
Rd 17: *2SC [DC]tog, 1 SC [DC] in next two stitches **. Repeat from * to ** all round.

Rd 18: 1 SC [DC] in each stitch
Rd 19: 2SC [DC]tog all round - crochet every two stitches together


 It now ought to look something like this:


Now the fun bit starts! Stuff it with as much stuffing as you can manage and sew the the inner edges together as shown. And then stuff some more stuffing in there - they have to be really full.


 

 















Frosting:
Begin by chaining 18 stitches.
Rd 1: 1 SC [DC] in each stitch.
Rd 2: 2 SC [DC] in each stitch around.
Rd 3: 1 SC [DC] in each stitch
Rd 4: 1 SC [DC] in each stitch
Rd 5: 1 SC [DC] in each stitch
Rd 6: *2 SC [DC] in first stitch, 1 SC [DC] in next four stitches **. Repeat from * to ** all round. 
Rd 7: 1 SC [DC] in each stitch

You should now have a shape similar to the flat donut photo above, but it might curl in a little more. Again, don't worry - this is good. The edge of the frosting is done by making stitches of different heights into each stitch of the previous row - randomly, to look like dripping frosting. For example, I usually do:
1 SC [DC],  1 HDC [HTR], 1 DC [TR], 1 HDC [HTR], 1 SC [DC] - up and down, up and down!


Then sew the inner edge of the frosting to the inside of the donut and whipstitch the edge of the frosting dribbles to the outside. Stick in your pins ... and there you go!

Stitches:
This pattern uses American English terms.
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
sc = single crochet [double crochet in British English]
hdc = half double crochet [half treble crochet in British English]
dc = double crochet [treble in British English]
tr = treble crochet [double-treble in British English]


This pattern is worked in multiples of 6 + 1 extra stitch in the first round. You need approx 150 - 200g yarn (depending on scarf length and whether you add a fringe.)

Chain 211 (i.e. 35 x six stitches, plus one extra.)
Row 1: 1 HDC in the third chain from the hook ,1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, * (1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, ). Repeat from * to the end of the row.
Now, your row should look like this:

Row 2: 4 ch, 1 sc in the tr below, 2 chain, 1 dc in the sc in the row below. Continue till the end, finishing with a tr in the last sc of the previous row.
Like this:


Repeat rows 1 and 2 till the scarf is the desired width.

Photo Tutorial
I'm a visual learner, so I love photos. If you're like me, I hope this will help...

The toothpicks show the sets of six stitches, they show where you’ll do a sc every time. To start off each row, we actually do one chain stitch instead of a dc. So we start by doing a hdc into the first stitch on the left of the red toothpick (third chain from the hook) and the two chain stitches create a fake sc.


Here you can see what it looks like when I have done my first six-stitch group (sc-hdc-dc-tr-dc-hdc-sc) The second sc is in the stitch marked by the green toothpick.

And so we continue, in multiples of six – the orange toothpick marks the end of the second six-stitch group and we’ve finished up with a sc again. You continue on till you’ve reached the end of row 1 and you should end with a sc at the end of a six-stitch group.

Turn your work. Now, I’m only working with two six-stitch groups, but you can see how I’d begin the second row: chain 4 (the first two are a kind of fake dc)

and then do an sc into the top of the tr in the row before. Chain 2, then do a dc into the sc of the row before:

And so you continue till the end of the row. Have a look at this – see the pattern emerging? The toothpicks mark where you did a sc in row 1 in the six-stitch group and a dc in row 2.

At the end of the row, you turn and do one chain (the fake sc again), then continue with a hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc – just repeating row 1. You can see how this row is beginning to take shape, and once again the toothpick is showing us where the last dc in previous row is, with one extra ch as our first fake sc.

Keep going! The toothpick shows the last sc in the six-stitch group.


Add a fringe and wear with pride :-)


The legal bit:
You may make these for your personal use, as gifts, or to sell at craft fairs or craft markets. You may not reproduce this pattern in print or claim it as your work. You may not sell the pattern. Do not copy and paste pattern to another website, please use a link.